Frame Size Guide

What Frame Size Do I Need?
This frame size guide is just that, a guide. We’d always advise doing as much research as possible, with that, here are some points to consider.

Big Up Droppers.
Seat tube length is an outdated method of working out what size frame you need so let’s get it out of the way - literally. Correct saddle height is important for pedaling efficiency and comfort but just as important is the ability to get the saddle as low as possible for more confidence on downhill and technical sections. By using a short seat tube and a long travel dropper post across the size range we can achieve both these things, whatever length your legs are. 

Reach and Stack.
Reach and stack measurements are far more useful figures for mountain bike frame sizing than seat tube length, as they help describe the relationship between your pedals and grips, your key contact points when riding dynamically. Of the two, reach is the more important variable when choosing a frame size as it gives an indication of how much space you have to move within the limits of the bike.

In general, the taller you are the more reach you need, but if you have longer than average arms or torso for your height then you might find a frame with more reach works better for you. Got arms like a T-Rex? Then you might prefer less reach. 

A frame is not a t-shirt though and there are factors to consider other than the size of your body parts, such as the trails you like to ride and your riding style.

Feel and Style.
Reach can be used to help influence the feel of the bike. More reach equals a longer bike, which, in turn, is more stable. Less reach equals a shorter bike, one that is easier to throw about. Most riders will be looking to strike a balance between confidence inspiring stability and sharp handling, which is what our size recommendations are based on. But if you mostly ride steep, fast trails then a frame with more reach will help keep things calm and controlled. If your trails are mostly tight and twisty and you like to pop off every lip and root, then a frame with less reach will feel more agile.

Climb Time.
Reach doesn’t tell the whole story though. It’s worth looking at top tube length and seat tube angles, to get an idea of how the bike will feel when seated. After all, your saddle is still the third contact point in this bike fit equation. We use a steep seat angle as it centers the rider on the bike when they are in the saddle, aiding grip when climbing and helping engage the piston like upper leg and bum muscles for maximum power.

Fine Tune.
We’ve designed our 4060 and 4060 Z ranges to work with a 35mm length stem to keep the handling sweet and we’d recommend sticking with this length. If you feel you need a longer stem, go for a larger frame size instead.

Small changes to fit can be made by other simple adjustments, such as moving the saddle on its rails, rolling the bars forward or back or moving the stem up and down using spacers - and best of all they are free to do.